OKINAWA

Japan's very own tropical paradise. A chain of islands at the southern most point of the country.

Naha:

Some people say stay away from Naha. It's not so different from other Japanese cities and people are generally wary of foreigners because of the army base (even if you look nothing like a marine). Fun if you want to do some serious partying. Not the place for a beach holiday. Good place to see some really interesting historical stuff (esp. WWII).

At the airport information ask for brochures in English. They have benri info, a map of the main island and a few recommendations of other islands.

getting there and around:

Buses are not great. They are expensive, take a long time to get anywhere and don't run that often. Also check the Kanji and the timetable thoroughly.

Taxis are very cheap, the meter starts at 450 yen and goes up a lot slower than Tokyo.

Bicycle Hire is good but it's hilly. You can hire them form your hotel.

Car Hire is highly recommended. There is not much to see around Naha itself so you need to be able to move around freely. Book very early for Golden Week and double check your reservation. (also see below)

Scooter Hire is also an option, but you will need a Japanese driving licence.

Ferries - There are two ports in Naha: Naha Port and Tomari Port. Most if not all ferries leave from Tomari. Buy a ticket at the port. Getting the info elsewhere can be very difficult. Most ferries leave two or three times a day depending on the island. (Ferry terminal is really easy to get to as is marked on the monorail maps.)

From Tokyo to Naha the ferry takes 44 hours and costs about ￥23,000 and only leaves once a week. From southern Kyushu the ferry takes about 24 hours and costs about ￥15,000 and leaves once a day. These costs are for the lowest class accommodation -no bed, you share a tatami room. For a private room, double the cost.

to see:

Aquarium - spectacular, but pricey (you get what you pay for).

Ocean Park Expo - great aquarium and other nature friendly stuff to do.

There are world heritage sites where native priestesses hold ceremonies. Go at sunset for amazing views of the ocean.

to stay:

Pension Ghetto - nice, clean, and cheap. On a rather seedy street. It's dorm style, but small. Hard futons on bunk beds, but only 1500yen per night. Coffee shop across the street with great morning set.

Okinawa Guesthouse - in the Lonely Planet. It's dirt cheap and the staff extremely friendly. Has a place to cook if you are strapped for cash and is close to a monorail stop.

Coco Shanti Guest House - about 1500en a night and right off the main party street. You get what you pay for as far as accommodation (bunk beds and dodgey shower) but free internet and tons of crazy characters hang about to entertain.

Stella Resort - a cheap hostel in Naha. Newly renovated (stylish, no less), ￥1500 a night and a pretty good location near Kokusai Dori.

Lohas - really nice - http://lohas-cg.com/english.html

YHA - Cheap accomodation in Naha, very very close to Kokusai dori, which is the main avenue. It's a youth hostel only for girls. ￥1500/night, with a bar (300 yens/drink) http://okinawakuukan.com/index/shop/food/naha/moonbow/index.html

The tourist centre in Naha airport has a long list of places with prices, phone numbers and addresses.

Anywhere in the Kokusai Dori or Matsuyama areas are good - the Tourist Information place on Kokusai Dori can arrange accommodation.

OR head North towards Nago (from Naha 1 and half to 2 hours on express bus). Then take 66 or 65 bus to LUE on the Beach Hotel(ask the bus driver and they'll stop at it for you). Great Japanese/Western style hotel with sea view and off-season price about 4500en per person. They can also set you up with diving, night cruises and other stuff.

eating and drinking/clubs:

Hi No Tama - not near the main drag.

Club Echo they play a lot of hip hop, but also some Japanese pop/hip-hop, and techno. It's just a couple of minutes walk from the main drag, up away from the main part of the street about 3 or 4 blocks on the opposite side of Lawson. http://www.cutmasters.com/top/play.html - for all the clubs in Okinawa.

Note:

Some people have reported being very shocked by the behaviour of the US troops based in Naha and tried to avoid areas where they would hang out. Others had no trouble. Here are some comments - you make up your own mind...

"I was very unpleasantly surprised by the amount of comments and catcalls i got just walking down the street ... so unless you are looking for that kind of attention, i would not go to a gaijin club - from my experience it was all guys, all military, all horny."

"When I was in Okinawa the boys in uniform were grand! Loved hanging out with some of them! Honestly, didn't see a whole lot of them out, even on the main drag. That being said, I'm sure there are plenty that are looking for more than good conversation, but I have had that in every single country I've been in with men who are not in the armed forces. Don't let it stop you from going places"

Other islands...

The southern islands are supposed to be the most beautiful. From Naha you can easily take ferries to and from small islands between 1-2 hours away.

Kerama Islands (Tokashiki and Zamami):

A group of islands and only 4 are populated. Zamami is the largest. Take a motor boat and hop between islands, especially deserted ones with great snorkeling and scuba diving. The water is gorgeous, the people great and it's not too over run with tourists. Great beaches, small towns, great camping, very laid back.

Whale Watching:

From the end of December to early April you can go whale watching around Zamami!

getting there:

Round trip ferry ticket from Naha 3500en and a 2 hour ride. Also high speed ferry about 1 hour.

to stay:

Murakami - a great minshuku, rooms very charming and only 4000en a night with out food or 6000en with.

Miyamura - on , 098-987-2005 and the website is http://homepage1.nifty.com/amijakan/miyamura.htm

Shirahama Resort (Zamami) - about 500 feet from the dock where the ferry drops you off, but will (totally unnecessarily) provide a shuttle bus. Nice, about 7000yen per night including breakfast and dinner.

Summer House Yuyu (Zamami) - Rates are excellent, it has air-con and clean showers (which are in an addition just outside the house). The family who runs it are really friendly.

You do get what you pay for, so it's not going be as fancy as a resort. In the Lonely Planet.

to do:

Hang out with the locals to learn Okinawan drinking games and get taken to the best star-viewing places.

Zamami Island is famous for whale watching cruises.

There's tons of diving - try Powder Blue in Zamami.

Kerama Kayak Center - does kayaking trips, snorkelling, camping and they have diving connections and whale watching in the winter. The guides are very good but don't speak English. Prices reasonable compared to other places on the island. http://www.h5.dion.ne.jp/~keramakc/ they have all the equipment so you don't have to bring or buy a thing.

There are plenty of little places to eat.

Aka:

South of Naha. Beautiful, but very small. Try scuba diving there. The Okinawa ramen here is great.

Kumejima:

to see:

Don't go to the sea turtle museum it isn't worth it. Neither is the beach bath.

to stay:

Marine Terrace - very nice and cheap. Just across the way from the expensive hotels on Efu Beach, the main beach on the island. They don't speak much English. It costs around ￥1500 from the ferry port for a taxi. Once you are there they have a semi frequent bus that goes to the place with the rocks that is quite pretty (gotta watch the tide though because the rocks get covered). Phone: 098-896-8100.

Ishigaki:

getting around:

Ishigaki Island has a few buses that run to neat places outside Ishigaki-shi, such as Kabira-wan or the Yonehara Beach/Yaeyama Palms area, but they may head back to Ishigaki a little too early. Ferry travel is awesome on Ishigaki, with frequent trips to all of the outer islands and the English-adept travel agencies selling tickets right at the port.

Taketomi is awesome and can be done in a day, or a short day if you aren't interested in swimming or chilling at the beach. As for transportation, Taketomi is amazingly tiny, and the popular mode of transport is bike or waterbuffalo, if you enjoy seeing large cow-like animals being repeatedly prodded and dragged around the streets with ropes through their noses. Also, if you like diving, Miyako-jima (in Miyako-shouto, north of Ishigaki's Yaeyama-shouto) is pretty famous (also for surfing), as is a stretch of sea from around Ishigaki to Iriomote (lots of manta rays in May).

to stay:

If you don't mind dormitory-style accomodations and can speak some Japanese, there are some guesthouses for ￥1500 or less a night on Ishigaki-jima.

to stay:

Tidanufa (音楽と農家の宿 ティダヌファ) The whole place was newly remodeled in 2006, and it's run by a wonderful couple who will go out of their way to make you feel at home. The atmosphere was fantastic, it's cheap (around ￥3000 yen/night each), there is A/C in the rooms, and it's only like a 5 minute walk from the ferry port. Phone: 0980-82-0369

http://web.travel.rakuten.co.jp/portal/my/jyouhou_page.main?f_teikei=quick&f_no=54090&f_tscm_flg=&f_tel=&f_nen1=2007&f_tuki1=04&f_hi1=05&f_nen2=2007&f_tuki2=04&f_hi2=06&f_otona_su=1&f_s1=0&f_s2=0&f_y1=0&f_y2=0&f_y3=0&f_y4=0&f_heya_su=1&f_kin=999999&f_kaiin_no=&f_kaiin_tel=&f_flg=KIHON

TOP TIPS:

• The weather in winter can be chilly. Take a spring jacket and long sleeved shirts. Swimming is fine, but it's cold in the water. you will need other plans than just seaside stuff!
• Japanese people DO NOT go on beach holidays at certain times of year and will think you're nuts for swimming. February is still offseason.
• There are dozens of hotels and minshukan that are basically vacant during the offseason.
• If you're into diving (which is great in Okinawa) find accommodation that includes diving trips as part of the price. It could save you money.
• Off-season may mean no crowds and cheaper prices but some places may be closed.
• surprisingly not that crowded during Golden Week. Save money by buying a package deal with like airfare and hotel.
• If you also stay on the main island renting a car is pretty essential since there are no trains. There are rental car places all over the island. The monorail only goes so far. If you don't rent a car, then you're going to have to relay on buses or taxis. Buses take a long time and taxis are expensive. Driving is really easy as almost all signs have English and the roads are wider.
• If you want to go swimming on the main island, go farther north where the nice beaches are. May be a bit chilly.